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	© Paul O’Brien, Field Contributor The Yampa River enters canyon’s Deer Lodge Park

As a photographer and lover of nature and the outdoors I have spent quite a bit of time enjoying a number of our country’s national parks and monuments. Of course, so do many other folks and the number of people enjoying our parks and monuments can be staggering. An important component of my idea for an enjoyable outdoor experience that satisfies my personal, spiritual, and photographic desires involves a removal from the sights and sounds of others and immersion in nature. This can be difficult to find with so many other admirers flocking to the same area. Fortunately, there are some national parks and monuments that don’t receive huge numbers of visitors and offer a satisfying level of quiet and solitude for people like me.  Dinosaur National Monument is one such place.

Many national parks were set aside for protection because of outstanding and unique surface features. For Dinosaur National Monument (DNM), it was because of something found under the surface. The impetus for the creation of the Monument began in 1909 when paleontologist Earl Douglass discovered a wealth of fossilized dinosaur bones near where the Dinosaur Museum now stands. Over the next 15 years bones of ten different species of dinosaurs were excavated as well as rare fossils of prehistoric mammals and other animals such as turtles and crocodiles. Over 300 tons of these remains were shipped to various museums across the country. Most went to the Carnegie Museum where officials pressured the government to protect the excavation site. In 1915, President Woodrow Wilson created an 80 acre national monument encompassing the quarry to protect it.  It wasn’t until 1938 that the monument was expanded to more than 209,000 acres to preserve the beautiful canyon lands and wild inhabitants of this cold desert.

Around 1930, Bureau of Reclamation engineers were developing ideas about constructing a dam in what was to become DNM. Water is an invaluable and scarce resource of the arid western U.S.  By the 1950’s, strong interests that favored damming the rivers of Dinosaur threatened the monument’s preservation directive to maintain its natural condition. Thankfully, due to considerable effort by a number of concerned individuals and organizations, such as David Brower and the Sierra Club, DNM was spared. Another involved in this issue was photographer Philip Hyde. Trying to convince people that there is substantial value for them and future generations in a large tract of land they had never seen, regardless of how much others praise its beauty and uniqueness, can be difficult. It becomes even more difficult when weighing something that seems intangible against the obvious tangible benefits and profits of damming a river and increasing the water supply. Philip Hyde’s photographs of Dinosaur National Monument provided people with something to appreciate and become concerned about, greatly assisting in DNM’s continued preservation.

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© Paul O’Brien, Field Contributor Old Dry Wood—Dinosaur National Monument CO

Dinosaur not only seems to contradict the common notion of a desert by being cold and having water in the form of rivers and scattered creeks fed by ground sources, it also has considerable and diverse vegetation and animal life, some of the endemic species being unique to the region.  In general the vegetation may not be as appealing to some when compared to other national parks but it is quite well adapted in form and function to these dry conditions, nutrient poor soils, and temperature extremes.  Personally, I find the vegetation’s appearance and characteristics to be a good match with the features and characteristics of the landscape as well as good photo subjects.  Sagebrush, saltbrush, and greasewood dominate the plateaus and canyon lands with scattered small forests primarily composed of pinyon pine, junipers, and small patches of aspen at the higher elevations.  There is also a variety of grasses and wildflowers, such as the arrowleaf balsamroot whose large leaves and yellow flowers fill some hillsides. Grasses were once much more prevalent but the shrubs took over due to the cattle and sheep grazing of the past. Nonetheless, grasses still dominate some slopes and meadows. Common in the riparian habitats are alder stands and grasses that vary considerably from the grasses of the dry habitats.

The animals inhabiting the DNM are also well adapted to life here and are good subjects for photos. If you are set up for shooting from your vehicle the Harpers Corner Road may offer good possibilities to photograph mule deer, pronghorn antelope or an occasional elk on the broad rolling plateau and highlands. The sun shining through the dry, dusty desert air during the early and late hours of the day offers excellent warm light on the plateaus for either landscape or wildlife photos. The Harpers Corner Road doesn’t have many spots to pull off the road but it is best to avoid pulling off just anywhere. The desert plants are easily damaged so be considerate of the life here. For fleeting wildlife photo opportunities, be extremely cautious if you stop in the road.

Another wildlife subject that I enjoy here is lizards. Tree, short–horned, sagebrush, eastern fence, and side–blotched are some of the lizard species found here. I stumble upon them occasionally as I hike but I prefer to look for lizard photo opportunities in rocky areas that offer them good locations to sunbathe, hunt, and hide. These areas make them more visible to me and allow more room to move and set up at their level. Lizards are usually skittish critters so if you want a tight shot of one, you will probably need a long lens to allow you adequate working distance. It is possible to get in close for shorter lenses with know how and patience but, as always, be attentive to the animal’s behaviors and avoid causing it stress or harm.

DNM has a variety of other wild residents besides these species. Some are around but not often seen, such as black bears, mountain lions, and bighorn sheep. Be prepared for anything. There are also golden eagles and various species of hawks, falcons, owls, song birds, mammals, snakes and insects in this diverse desert ecosystem. Talking to the park rangers may get you some information on specific places to look for wildlife to increase your chances for sightings and photographs.

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	© Paul O’Brien, Field Contributor The Gates of Lodore—Dinosaur National Monument CO

When I now return it is not to collect scientific data, but with photo gear in tow to explore the plateaus and canyons enjoying the isolation in pursuit of photographic moments. Aside from the desert climate, there are a few other factors that contribute to the easily found solitude of DNM. The park is a bit off the well traveled path. While it is easily accessed from US Highway 40 in Colorado and Utah, the area is not nearly as heavily traveled as other more favored tourist destinations of the West. One also has to drive in a bit from the highway to see what Dinosaur contains. Since it is not relatively well known nor easily visible, it gets passed by many unaware travelers. It is also the sort of place that may not appeal to the average national park visitor because road and trail travel is limited within Dinosaur. Most roads are not paved and some are best used with four–wheel drive vehicles. In wet conditions the dirt roads become very slick due to their high clay content.  Even four–wheel drive becomes ineffective because the wet clay adheres to and encases tires making some roads impassable when it rains. Fortunately, things usually dry quickly in the desert.

DNM also does not have a large number of well developed hiking trails and the environment and terrain can be challenging for back country foot travel.  A trail at Harpers Corner offers a spectacular and broad panoramic view of the canyons and rivers.  At the end of the Harpers Corner Road is an easy trail that leaves the parking lot and takes one along a narrowing ridge that extends from the high plateau for about a mile. It ends on something of a rocky buttress with a breathtaking view off three sides to the rivers, canyons, and desert nearly two thousand feet below.  The trail offers good photo opportunities for early and late day sunlight. When storms pass through during the day the result can be beautifully dramatic photo conditions but be cautious and aware of the weather, particularly electrical storms. Also, flash floods can result from strong localized storms in this region, so being mindful of the conditions around you will pay off in your photography, safety, and enjoyment.

Storms in this region are usually brief but such a high narrow prominence has an increased potential for lightning strikes even when a storm cloud is miles away. One afternoon when I was at Harpers Corner, a sequence of approximately a dozen small storms passed me on this lofty perch. From the ridge I could see the storm approaching in the distance and as one would get too close for my comfort I would collect my gear and head for a safer spot. Once the storm passed I would hustle back out on the ridge and set up to capture one storm’s passing and the approach of another.

Another consideration for the adventuresome is to be aware of your footing. The soils on the slopes are usually quite loose and a misstep on this steep terrain can create a nasty situation. When wet, the sedimentary rocks and clay soils are quite slick. Don’t get stuck on a steep, wet slope and when others claim a dirt road to be impassable when wet, it is wise to believe them.

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© Paul O’Brien, Field Contributor A Brief, Late Spring Snow blankets the desert on the Bureau of Land Management land near the DNM Visitor Center in CO

Echo Park has a primitive campground with drinking water and a bathroom provided by the river outfitters that use DNM. This park and some other spots along the rivers are vehicle accessible and used for launching and landing by those running the rivers, a popular activity in these spectacular canyons. Echo Park is a photogenic area with an abundance of subject matter for shooting landscapes, intimate scenics, wildlife, insects, flowers, unique grasses and more. It is also a good place from which to explore along the river, check out some ravines, or hike up to the rim. And whether from Harpers Corner or Echo Park, one can’t miss the prominent Steamboat Rock with the Green River bending around the base of its sheer rock face. There aren’t any developed trails here but one can get around a bit on undeveloped and game trails before needing to bushwhack. Of course, snakes reside in this country such as the midget faded rattlesnake so be aware.

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	© Paul O’Brien, Field Contributor Wind blown grasses and buttes above echo canyon Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Two other picturesque locations that are easier to access are where the rivers begin their serpentine courses through the canyons. Deerlodge Park is where the Yampa River starts cutting through the canyon country and the Gates of Lodore is where the Green River enters. Both are launching sites for those running the rivers so the campgrounds here get some use, maybe more so at Lodore, but it doesn’t take much time or distance to get away from the activity. A short trail, about three quarters of a mile, starts at the Lodore Campground and takes one into the canyon where one begins to see the towering, deep red walls of the Gates of Lodore.

The Canyon of Lodore has primarily a north–south orientation and tall, steep walls so getting enough sunlight into the canyons, especially good photographic light, can be difficult.  An option is to shoot elsewhere in the early morning and shoot Lodore later in the day.  When sunny, a polarizer will cut down on the glare off the rock faces because the morning sunlight washes out the rocks’ red color. At times graduated neutral density filters can be very useful to control the contrast range between shadowed and brightly lit areas. Cloudy days can provide excellent photo opportunities through the day when diffused or dappled light illuminates the canyon. There aren’t any developed trails with which to access the canyon rim, but the view is worth the challenging hike. Of course, such a hike is not for the unfit nor unprepared and be sure to keep one eye on the weather and one on your next step.  Be aware of the presence of snakes, step on the most durable surfaces available to avoid damaging the habitat, and watch out when the rocks and soil get wet. Be particularly careful to avoid stepping on microbiotic soil—a living, dark, crusty looking ground cover with a surface texture something like that of popcorn. Microbiotic soils are made up of a mixed colony of algae and fungus, they help keep the soil in place against erosion, and they take a long time to grow in this harsh environment. A park ranger can help if you are unsure as to its appearance.

Deerlodge Park, where the Yampa River cuts into the canyons, is quite picturesque and often quiet. Like Echo Park, this broad area alongside the river offers a number of photo options. There is also a trail at the end of the road that takes one in toward the Yampa’s entrance. This canyon has a generally east–west orientation with its mouth facing east so it receives quality early morning light. It is a good idea to be set up and ready to trip the shutter before sunrise colors are reflecting off the river and the first rays of light illuminate the canyon’s rocky rim. And as the name might imply, mule deer are commonly seen at Deerlodge Park, so be ready with a long lens.

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© Paul O’Brien, Field Contributor Side Blotched Lizard on lichen motled sandstone McKee Springs, Dinosaur National Monument Utah

Sometimes during my quiet moments in DNM, usually while perched on a cliff or some other prominence overlooking Dinosaur’s rugged landscape, I’ll ponder how the area may have appeared millions of years ago when the dinosaurs roamed and the land was developing into what it is today. Dinosaurs were here from about 150 through 65 million years ago during a relatively stable geologic period for the region. But the times of the dinosaurs residence was only a moment in the life of this region. Before the dinosaurs, over a billion years ago, ancient mountains to the northeast were eroding and the material was depositing in a long sinking trough which included the Dinosaur area. Over the millennia sediments continued to build up from sand, silt, and pebbles deposited by winds, rivers, and a sea that repeatedly rose and receded. Layers of various compositions developed, compressed by their weight and bound together by silica. Near the end of the dinosaurs’ time the Rocky Mountains were uplifted to the east which caused upheaval of the rock layers that had formed in the Dinosaur area. Layers moved up, down, or sideways along fault lines and were laterally compressed by the forces of the developing mountains. The compression caused layers to bend, bow, buckle and sometimes break. All of these forces and activities led to the diversity of strata and land forms of the area.

Erosion and sedimentation continued. The dinosaur remains in the area became buried approximately a mile below the surface. Eventually the Green and Yampa Rivers started to form and build power. Over the next five million years or more the rivers were the primary erosional instruments that removed enough soil and rock to make the fossilized dinosaur bones accessible to Earl Douglass and form the face of DNM that we see today. The rivers exhumed hogbacks, flat irons, sheer vertical rock walls and a variety of other forms of land and soil in this landscape tapestry—an array of lines, curves, and colors of rock strata that were built by the debris stripped from mountains and then jostled and bent from the forces that rippled away from the growth of other mountains. DNM displays the most complete geologic history of any other national park or monument in the U.S.

My favorite time to visit and photograph DNM is during spring when the vegetation is green, flowers are beginning to bloom, and snow storms are possible. Summers are hot and dry but with preparation and carrying plenty of water one will find plenty to do and photograph. Fall is also quite good with cooler temperatures and colorful leaves, particularly in the riparian corridors. I’ve never been in DNM in the winter because access into the monument can become limited. Whenever you decide to visit Dinosaur National Monument, be prepared and enjoy.

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For more information from the US National Park System regarding Dinosaur National Monument, their official website is http://www.nps.gov/dino/.

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