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Southern Africa’s Photographic Highlights—Self–guided Safaris though the Last Edens

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© Tina Wright, Field Contributor
Article and Images by
Tina Wright
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Throughout history, across continents in every culture, there are spaces said to be forbidden—merciless expanses that hold no place for the curious. Such a place exists deep in the heart of central Arizona’s Sonoran Desert. There, amid its stark canyons and perilous trails, ghostly whispers echo through silent currents of wind, and in them you may just hear tale of the Lost Dutchman and his hidden treasure of gold.

Gold Fever and the Superstitions
For more than a century the Superstition Wilderness has lured people into its heart with the promise of riches, only to instead forever claim their lives. Gold fever struck the Superstitions with the arrival of Jacob Waltz, otherwise referred to as the Dutchman. Actually a native German, he claimed to have discovered the lost Peralta mine in the 1870’s and hidden the caches somewhere in the range. The alleged mine was developed by the Peralta family in the 1840’s and was said to be very prosperous until most of the family was massacred in an Apache ambush. Waltz’s find however, and the secret to its concealed location, died with him in 1891. Since then, many have perished or simply disappeared altogether in the search for the Lost Dutchman’s mine.

Reputation aside, the Superstition Range holds much more than the lure of dreams. Designated a Wilderness Area in 1964, the area embraces 159,757 acres of hauntingly beautiful desert landscape. Comprised of cactus—clad mountains, steep cliffs, lush riparian streams and sparkling lakes. it is nothing short of inspirational!

The old Apache Trail
Route 88, otherwise referred to as the Old Apache Trail, is a half paved, half graded road that snakes its way from Apache Junction, on Phoenix’s eastern edge, northeast through the Wilderness Area to Roosevelt Lake. Accessible from US Highway 60, this fifty-mile stretch of road traverses mountains ranging in elevation from approximately 2,000 to 5,000 feet and is a must if visiting the region.

From a photographic standpoint, the Old Apache Trail reveals things new and marvelous around every twisted bend. In fact, few other drives so well personify our collective ideal of the American Southwest. Wild and mysterious, it is ruggedly picturesque—conjuring up images of a bygone era where men were wild and the land that called to them was wilder still.

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© Tina Wright, Field Contributor
Lost Dutchman State Park
Lost Dutchman State Park is located just five miles from Apache Junction and is a true icon in its own right! The park, and its famous mountain, acts as a gateway into the Superstition Range and is recognized worldwide for its photogenic appeal. The area is thick with cholla, giant saguaro, and prickly pear cacti and offers plenty of photographic possibilities. Wide-angle lenses work nicely here as they enable you to create a strong foreground by closing in on a nice grouping of cacti while still being able to include the entire mountain in the background. Also keep your eyes—and ears—peeled for rattlesnakes and keep a moderate telephoto lens handy in order to photograph them from a safe distance. The park is open year round sunrise to 10:00 PM and requires a nominal entrance fee.

The Lichen Fields and Canyon Lake Vista
Leaving Lost Dutchman State Park, the road begins to coil its way through spiked turtlebacks and sinuous mountains of barren rock. And though they may seem lifeless, the first thing you will notice about the area is its striking color. The exposed rock provides a perfect habitat for yellow paint lichen to flourish—it would appear gold does exist here! Florescent in color, the lichen fields cover every square inch of this segment and are definitely worth investigation.

Just past the lichen fields, is Canyon Lake Vista. This popular vista offers spectacular views of Canyon Lake and the sheer bluffs that encircle it. During winter and summer be on the lookout for dramatic storms sweeping in from the east over the distant mountain ranges. Be prepared to capture striking images, but stay alert and be ready to take shelter as these storms can move rapidly and contain dangerous lightning.

Tortilla Flat
As you wind your way past Canyon Lake, your next stop should be Tortilla Flat. This collaboration of rustic buildings and historic old-west relics lends a touch of nostalgia to the drive. Today the buildings serve to offer souvenirs and quench the thirsts of those passing through. Before leaving take a short walk around Tortilla Creek. Look for saguaros and canyons reflecting in the many pools and if you’re lucky—or depending upon the individual, unlucky—you may glimpse the giant desert tarantula long enough to photograph it.

Fish Creek Area
Soon after leaving Tortilla Flat, paved road turns graded and remains this way throughout the duration of the drive, but is well maintained and navigable by all vehicles. As you begin to climb in elevation, the landscape grows increasingly dense with agaves, prickly pears, chollas and ocotillos. The area is ideal for capturing the cacti’s many colorful blooms during the spring.

At the crest of the mountain you will find Fish Creek Hill Scenic Vista. This precipice offers impressive 360-degree views and examination of the area is usually fruitful. Aside from the obvious landscape possibilities, there are many macro-suitable subjects as well. Search for interesting patterns in the numerous cactus skeletons that litter the ground and survey the spaces around them as they offer a favorite hiding place for the small and inconspicuous bark scorpion. Beware though, its sting is poisonous and can cause sickness.

Leaving the vista, the road descends sharply through plunging canyon walls and over Fish Creek Bridge. Just past this old metal bridge is a pull-off, which allows foot access to Fish Creek. The lush riparian area is lined in shady cottonwood trees and is paramount to the desert’s ecosystem, offering a cool respite from the searing heat. Fall adds a touch of color when the cottonwoods turn varying shades of amber and saffron. In any season glance for wildlife taking advantage of the natural shelter, such as the desert cottontail and pig-like javelina. Don’t forget to survey the area’s myriad boulders for collared and short-horned lizards sunning themselves.

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© Tina Wright, Field Contributor
Apache Lake Recreation Area
With distance the terrain becomes less severe as you enter Apache Lake Recreation Area. This is saguaro country, boasting some of the heaviest and healthiest concentrations of giant saguaros found anywhere in Arizona! Plan on spending a good deal of time photographing the ancient cacti.

If you are fortunate enough to drive through during the saguaro bloom—sometime between May and June—look for individuals with arms twisting in a downward direction. The blooms bud from the end of the arms, and on a specimen that can reach fifty feet; this makes close-ups of the white flowers obviously difficult at best. A few low hanging arm will be allow for macro images as well as dynamic wide-angles featuring the budding arm in the foreground.

Another fortunate, albeit rare, situation to find yourself in would be a winter storm. If you are this lucky don’t let the opportunity pass you by. Be ready, as snow is known to blanket the arms of these desert sentinels, but only in a dusting, leaving the moment all too fleeting. Fortune not withstanding, lovely renditions of these rare Sonoran emblems can be made in any season. Backlighting is especially productive with these subjects, as early morning and late afternoon lights casts beautiful halos around their fine spines and stately silhouettes can be rendered against crimson skies at dusk and dawn.

The giant saguaro is not the only feature that rules the landscape here. Apache Lake cuts a wide path through the canyon walls surrounding it, an offspring of the mighty Roosevelt Dam. This sparkling lake can be photographed from many viewpoints including side-roads that lead directly to its shores. Keep an eye out for Gimbel’s quail, roadrunners, and ravens, all of which are prolific in the area.

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© Tina Wright, Field Contributor
Roosevelt Lake
As you pass by Roosevelt Dam, take a quick stop at the ensuing overlook. This is where the Old Apache Trail concludes, at the shore of a vast reservoir known as Roosevelt Lake. If you walk down the path that leads to the lower section of the overlook and turn towards the wall you will find a most unique image. There, in a small window chiseled from the concrete, a lone prickly pear cactus has decided to make its home. Its blue–green pancake stems drape the wall and inch towards the earth below, seeming to long for something more but not knowing what.

This is what we all feel as we end our journey through this range—a longing for something more. These mountains cast spells; they always have. This is what awards them their intrinsic charm. The Superstitions have well earned—even deserved—their name. This hot, wicked desert will not be tamed, nor should it be. I should simply be left to those souls whose whispers eternally haunt these canyons and those who choose to hear them and discover the mystery for themselves.

Sensible Tips
One should be prepared when entering the Superstitions. Summer temperatures can reach a blistering 120 degrees so carry plenty of water and sunscreen. Make sure the car is fully fueled and carry a compass if hiking off designated trails. Be cautious where you walk and sit, as rattlesnakes are prevalent. Otherwise, respect the land and enjoy.

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